Head / Taillight Tint Application Instructions
Vinyl Tint Overlay Instructions
Important! Please read instructions before applying overlays!
Heat gun or blow dryer (REQUIRED), squeegee or credit card, Xacto knife, paper towels,
Microfiber towel, baby soap and water in spray bottle, foaming glass cleaner, alcohol
Step 1: Cleaning the Light Housing and Lens
Thoroughly clean the lens and surrounding areas making sure they are free of dirt, oil, and dust using glass cleaner and then a 2:1 ratio of alcohol and water. Test the surface with tape; if it sticks you are ready to begin, if not clean the surface again. In a spray bottle mix a few drops of baby soap to water. (DO NOT USE DAWN) Then, using the soapy water, lightly wet the lens and leave it damp. (USING TOO MUCH LIQUID CAN WASH WAY THE ADHESIVE CAUSING THE VINYL NOT TO STICK OR LEAVING A CLOUDY HAZE WHEN INSTALLED) Try to keep your fingers wet at all times as well to avoid contaminating the surface or leaving fingerprints.
Step 2: Vinyl Alignment
With the lens and surrounding areas just wet enough to keep the vinyl from sticking, remove the vinyl from the backing paper, slightly wet the backside and align the straightest edge possible. The film may appear “too short or too long” at this point. This is because the film has not been heated and stretched/shrunk.
Step 3: Application – Having a second set of hands at this stage can be extremely beneficial!
This is the most difficult step. Working with the vinyl takes some time to get used to. Starting with the flattest pieces is recommend so you can get used to the vinyl before attempting the more complexly curved surfaces. Vinyl film is NOT the same as window tint, if you have experience with tint, the films behave differently.
Wet a paper towel and wrap it around the end of the squeegee to prevent scratching the vinyl. Wet the outside of the vinyl film.
For flatter surfaces, anchor a flat portion of the vinyl by applying pressure and use a sweeping motion to remove the moisture from under the film. Working away from the anchored point, continue the sweeping motion to remove the fluid and flatten the film. (THE FILM CAN CREASE EASILY, SO USE CAUTION) If large bubbles are present lift the loose end, moisten and reapply. Do not be worried about extremely small bubbles, they will disappear over time.
For curved surfaces, begin in the center of the surface and removed the fluid from under the film to create an anchor point. Once the film is anchored, lightly heat the film. Keep the film warm and gently stretch and smooth the film with the squeegee or the side of your thumb. If large bubbles start to form, lift the loose end, moisten under the film, pull the film tight and reapply. The film will not fully adhere until all fluid has been removed from underneath. Heat can be used to stretch the vinyl or to shrink it as well. (BE CAREFUL NOT TO HEAT THE VINYL TOO MUCH AS IT CAN MELT, TEAR, OR WRINKLE)
Step 4: Final Application and Trimming
Once the film is conformed to the surface you can finish working out any imperfections. Make sure you keep a fresh moistened paper towel on your squeegee. Re-spray the taillights with the glass cleaner and use the heat gun and go over the taillights a few more times to make sure all the trapped air has been worked out. Use firm, even pressure. Because the vinyl requires heating and stretching, slight trimming of the edges may be required. Use a new, sharp Xacto knife to remove any excess vinyl. Many kits are designed to have a small excess amount to roll around the edge of the lens. To do this, heat the film to soften it, roll the film over the edge with your finger and then apply heat again to seal the edge.
Step 5: Drying
The film will not be ready to go highway speeds or be washed until the adhesive is fully cured. After about an hour go back and check for air bubbles and work them out as needed, making sure the paper towel is lubricated with foaming glass cleaner. NOTE: It is not uncommon to have tiny bubbles or a hazed, foggy look, don’t stress about this, the vinyl is breathable and porous so tiny bubbles that won’t squeegee out will generally evaporate out in a few days to a week. If a larger bubble is unable to be worked to the edge, pop the bubble with a sewing needle and heat area to flatten and seal the hole. Let dry overnight. Polish the vinyl with a Microfiber cloth and common car wax. Do not wash your car for 48 hours. If you ever need to remove the film, heat an edge and slowly peel while continuously applying heat. Any leftover adhesive can be removed with a goo-gone type product.
CUSTOMER SATISFACTION IS OUR #1 PRIORITY
Installation problems? Please contact us, we are more than happy to help. We understand the tints can be difficult to install. We are dedicated to customer service and are more than happy to replace a panel or offer advice. Just ask! Please message us via the purchase site so we can access your order after contact.
We are here to help and will offer advice and do everything we can to make things right or help out the best we can. We stand behind every product and have installed them all before we ever sell them, so no matter the problem, we can help.